I have wanted to create a pearl pendant for a long time, and the nudge to do this came from a collector who wanted to pair one with the Versailles Pendant (on the same chain). I had just sourced a handful of gorgeous South Sea pearls at the Tucson Gem Show, and so I began thinking about the features of the perfect pearl pendant.
In keeping with signature George characteristics, I knew it would need to be simple and substantial, with the pearl as the star of the show. Articulation would be deprioritized so that the pendant would feel whole and sturdy. And the color and luster of the pearl would need to be extra creamy.
The Gold Cap
Many pearl pendants are made by attaching very thin jump rings or posts of gold to the pearl and calling it a day. These designs are simple, but the pearl doesn't feel “held.”
In instances where the pearl pendants do have actual gold caps, the caps tend to be thin and straight, giving the effect of bad bowl cut:
I wanted a subtle curve on the facing and back sides of the pearl to avoid this, so I sculpted wax to form a smooth "swoop," like this:
With my goldsmiths and digital sculptor, we adjusted the depth and movement of the curves of the gold cap until the proportions felt elegant.
The South Sea Pearl
An equally important aspect of the pendant was the proper choice of pearl. I didn't want anything bright white, irregularly shaped, iridescent ("rainbow") or shiny. I wanted a pearl that was smooth, perfectly spherical, off-white, and with a satin luster.
These features come together in the cream-colored South Sea pearl:
A South Sea pearl takes around 4 years to grow, and through this very slow process, it builds layers of layered platelets of crystallized calcium carbonate (aragonite) bound together by organic proteins (conchiolin) which form what is called "the nacre."
South Sea pearls are known for having the thickest nacre of all saltwater pearls. And because the nacre layers are so thick and dense, South Sea pearls radiate a soft, warm "glow" from within, rather than the sharp, mirror-like shine found in other pearls. This heavy nacre coating also makes them highly durable.
The result? A softly curved (and satisfyingly sturdy) cap of gold that holds a perfectly creamy pearl with just the right curvature from all angles. You will love its solidity, strength, and softness. Truly the perfect pearl pendant.
XO,
Chelsea Lauren
Founder and Creative Director